The Rawness And The Bombie
WORDS BY NICK CARROLL - READ MORE AT SURFLINE
“It’s such a big playing field.”
Mikey Brennan lives on the road right now, out of his native Tassie and hunting surf in WA — “living free”, as he puts it. On Wednesday morning he found himself at the Gracetown cafe, eating brekkie after a surf and watching some of the younger local crew getting spit out of seething North Point barrels.
“The kids are jumping into it,” he told us later. “The surf culture is pretty rich here. They’re teenagers and they’re so into the rhythm of the wave out there. The ocean is so raw, and they’re comfortable in that rawness, if you know what I mean. It’s another level of progression I think.” …